The Fuse 1+ 30W uses multiple heaters to bring the powder up to the proper temperature for sintering. A faulty or malfunctioning hopper trough heater or corresponding resistance temperature detectors (RTD) will prevent the printer from working properly.
Use this guide to replace the hopper trough RTD or heater on a Fuse 1+ 30W printer. To replace the RTD on a Fuse 1 printer, see Replacing the Fuse 1 hopper trough RTD. The hopper trough heater is not replaceable on Fuse 1 printers.
Required supplies:
Formlabs:
Third-party:
Estimated time: 45–60 minutes, plus time to print the optional cable gland wrench
Danger:
Read and follow all safety instructions and warnings in the operator manual. Replacement with incorrect parts can lead to burns, shock, fire, or explosion. Dispose of all parts in accordance with local regulations.
Warning:
Do not perform this procedure if the printer was printing less than six hours prior. Failure to do so may result in serious burns. Allow the print enclosure to cool to room temperature before touching or inspecting any Fuse 1+ 30W components.
Preparing the workspace
Overview: Prepare the printer and a dust-free workspace for replacing the hopper trough RTD or heater.
Notice:
Fuse 1 generation printers contain sensitive electronic components. Ground yourself before touching any electronics in the printer by using a grounding strap or touching a grounded piece of metal.
Step 1: Print the cable gland wrench
If you have access to another 3D printer or your Fuse 1+ 30W printer can complete a print before servicing, print and post-process a cable gland wrench. The STL file is available here.
Step 2: Prepare the workspace
Clear a workspace around your printer. Ensure that the workspace is well-ventilated and free of dust.
Step 3: Unplug the printer
Disconnect the power cable before continuing with maintenance. Do not perform maintenance on the printer while it is connected to power. Wait five minutes after disconnecting the printer from power before proceeding.
Danger:
Performing maintenance on the printer while it is plugged in increases the risk of electric shock. Never remove the back panel of the printer while the printer is plugged in. Never reconnect the printer to power while the back panel is uninstalled.
Step 4: Disconnect the nitrogen source
Disconnect the nitrogen hose from the quick-disconnect fitting, if connected.
Step 5: Remove the Wi-Fi antenna
Unscrew and remove the Wi-Fi antenna, if it is connected.
Removing the rear panels
Overview: Remove the rear panels to access the interior of the printer.
The six black lower rear panel screws are circled in red. The four chrome lower rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the six black panel screws and the four chrome panel grounding screws securing the lower rear panel to the printer. Set the screws aside, taking care to separate the black and chrome screws for later reinstallation.
Pull the lower rear panel straight back and away from the printer. Lay it down on a flat, clean surface.
Locate the ring clamp attached to the exhaust duct in the center of the printer.
Using a 6.5 mm flathead screwdriver, loosen the ring clamp screw. Do not remove the screw. Pull the exhaust duct away from the exhaust pipe.
Open the filter cabinet door on the printer. Locate the exhaust inlet on the right side of the cabinet.
Using a 2.0 mm hex driver, remove the four screws attaching the exhaust inlet to the filter cabinet. Set the screws aside.
The two black upper rear panel screws are circled in red. The two chrome upper rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the two black panel screws and two chrome panel grounding screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer. Set the screws aside, taking care to separate the black and chrome screws for later reinstallation.
Step 8: Remove the upper rear panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the eight screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer:
Set the screws aside.
Step 9: Remove the upper rear panel
Pull the upper rear panel straight back and away from the printer. Lay it down on a flat, clean surface.
Removing the hopper trough RTD or heater
Overview: Disconnect and unmount the hopper trough RTD and heater, then remove the component being replaced.
At the back of the printer, disconnect the connectors for the hopper trough heater and RTD cables. They are labeled C001 and C012, respectively.
Step 2: Open the print enclosure door
Open the filter cabinet door, then manually open the print enclosure door by pulling the blue release handle. This creates enough space to remove the display assembly.
The hopper trough is located inside the print enclosure, along the right-hand wall. Look under the hopper trough to find the hopper trough heater RTD and an aluminum bracket, highlighted in red here. The heater, shown with an arrow, is held against the trough by this bracket.
Under the hopper trough, locate the four screws securing the hopper trough RTD and heater. The screw securing the RTD, circled in yellow here, is positioned closest to the back of the print enclosure. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, loosen and remove the M3 socket head screw and washer securing the RTD. Set the screw and washer aside.
The heater is held against the hopper trough by an aluminum bracket. The two screws that secure it in place are circled in red here. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, loosen and remove the two M3 socket head screws and spring washers. Set the screws and washers aside.
Thread one of the M3 socket head screws into the center hole in the heater bracket. Use the screw as a handle and slide the aluminum bracket towards the rear of the printer. Once the bracket is free, remove it and set it aside.
If the bracket does not slide easily, use a 2 mm hex driver to partially unscrew the shoulder bolt, positioned at the end of the bracket near the print enclosure door.
Step 7: Unscrew the cable gland nut
From the rear of the printer, insert the printed cable gland wrench, pliers, or other similar tool into the access hole below the hopper flipper motor. Guide the wires into the cable gland wrench or between the plier jaws so they do not become pinched.
Unscrew the outer nut of the cable gland and slide it out of the way.
Locate the rubber seal positioned behind the cable gland nut. Pull the seal our of the cable gland, using pliers if necessary. Separate the wires for the component being replaced from the rubber seal.
Step 9: Remove the hopper trough RTD or heater
Pull either the heater or RTD, depending on which you are replacing out through the rear of the printer. It may be necessary to go back to the inside of the printer and push either of them through the hole. Set the removed component aside for disposal with electronic waste.
Remove the cable gland nut and set it aside.
Installing the replacement hopper trough RTD or heater
Overview: Mount, secure, and connect the replacement hopper trough RTD or heater.
Feed the new RTD or heater through the metal nut, then through the hole in the rear of the printer.
Connect the heater and RTD to their respective connectors to keep them from falling into the printer. They are labeled C001 and C012, respectively.
Step 3: Mount the heater
Inside the print enclosure, confirm that both the heater and RTD are hanging under the trough. Align the heater with the groove in the trough. Guide the heater into the groove.
Orient the heater bracket so that the slot aligns with the shoulder bolt near the front of the printer. Hold the bracket against the heater, then push the bracket towards the front of the printer until the screw holes in the bracket align with those in the trough.
Remove the M3 socket head screw from the middle hole in the bracket. Place a spring washer on two M3 socket head screws, thread them into the screw holes circled in red here, then use a 2.5 mm hex driver tighten until snug.
Align the screw hole in the RTD with the remaining empty screw hole in the heater bracket, circled in yellow here. Place a spring washer on a M3 socket head screw, thread it into the screw hole, then use a 2.5 mm hex driver tighten until snug.
At the rear of the printer, reinsert the cables into the rubber seal. Slide the rubber seal and metal nut forward until they are fully seated in the cable gland.
Step 8: Disconnect the heater and RTD cables
Disconnect the heater and RTD cables, labeled C001 and C012, respectively, so they do not entangle when tightening the nut.
Use the printed cable gland wrench, pliers, or other tool to tighten the cable gland nut by roughly one full turn. The nut only needs to be snug. If the wires begin to tangle or the rest of the cable gland starts to rotate, stop tightening.
Reconnect the heater and RTD cables, labeled C001 and C012, respectively.
Reinstalling the rear panels
Overview: After installing the replacement hopper trough RTD or heater, reinstall and secure the rear panels.
Lift the upper rear panel and align it with the four screw holes on the top of the printer.
Thread the four 6.0 mm screws into each of the screw holes on the top of the printer. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until finger tight. You may need to adjust the exhaust duct to correctly position the upper rear panel.
Thread the two 6 mm screws into the screw holes on the buffer side and the two 6 mm screws into the screw holes on the hopper side. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Thread the two 6mm screws into the holes on the hopper side. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
The two black upper rear panel screws are circled in red. The two chrome upper rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Thread the panel screws into the indicated screw holes on the upper rear panel. Refer to the image for the correct locations of the black and chrome screws. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, screw in the two black panel screws and two chrome grounding screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer.
Notice:
The placement of the chrome screws is critical to the printer's electrical grounding. Incorrect placement may lead to printer damage.
Step 6: Slide the exhaust duct into position
Slide the end of the exhaust duct with the ring clamp back onto the exhaust pipe. Ensure the exhaust duct presses against the insulation panel.
Step 7: Tighten the exhaust duct ring clamp
Using a 6.5 mm flathead screwdriver, tighten the ring clamp until finger tight.
Open the filter cabinet door on the printer. Thread the four 8.0 mm screws into the screw holes. Using a 2.0 mm hex driver, screw in the four exhaust duct screws until finger tight.
To ensure there is no gap between the exhaust duct’s mounting plate and the filter cabinet housing, shine a flashlight or other light source around the exhaust inlet inside the filter cabinet. If any light is visible behind the filter cabinet, the duct is not properly sealed. If necessary, use a 2.0 mm hex driver to tighten the exhaust duct screws. Close the filter cabinet door when finished.
The six black lower rear panel screws are circled in red. The four chrome lower rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Thread the panel screws into the indicated screw holes on the lower rear panel. Refer to the image for the correct locations of the black and chrome screws. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, screw in the six black panel screws and four chrome panel grounding screws securing the lower rear panel to the printer.
Notice:
The placement of the chrome screws is critical to the printer's electrical grounding. Incorrect placement may lead to printer damage.
Step 11: Reinstall the Wi-Fi antenna (optional)
Screw the Wi-Fi antenna onto the jack on the back of the unit.
Step 12: Reconnect the nitrogen supply (optional)
Reconnect the nitrogen hose to the quick-disconnect fitting, if previously installed.
Finalizing the repair
Overview: After installing the replacement hopper trough RTD or heater, power on the printer and perform final checks.
Step 1: Power on the printer
Connect the power cable to the printer and the power supply. The printer initializes.
Step 2: Test the repair
Start a print. Monitor the printer to ensure that the print proceeds normally. Contact Formlabs Support or your certified service provider to share the results of the procedure.
