The Fuse 1+ 30W uses multiple heaters to bring the powder up to the proper temperature for sintering. A faulty or malfunctioning resistance temperature detectors (RTD) on the air heater will prevent the printer from working properly.
Use this guide to replace the air heater RTD on a Fuse 1+ 30W printer. To replace this component on a Fuse 1 printer, see Replacing the Fuse 1 air heater RTD.
Required supplies:
Formlabs:
Third-party:
Estimated time: 45–60 minutes
Danger:
Read and follow all safety instructions and warnings in the operator manual. Replacement with incorrect parts can lead to burns, shock, fire, or explosion. Dispose of all parts in accordance with local regulations.
Warning:
Do not perform this procedure if the printer was printing less than six hours prior. Failure to do so may result in serious burns. Allow the print enclosure to cool to room temperature before touching or inspecting any Fuse 1+ 30W components.
Preparing the workspace
Overview: Prepare the printer and a dust-free workspace for replacing the air heater RTD.
Notice:
Fuse 1 generation printers contain sensitive electronic components. Ground yourself before touching any electronics in the printer by using a grounding strap or touching a grounded piece of metal.
Step 1: Prepare the workspace
Clear a workspace around your printer. Ensure that the workspace is well-ventilated and free of dust.
Step 2: Unplug the printer
Disconnect the power cable before continuing with maintenance. Do not perform maintenance on the printer while it is connected to power. Wait five minutes after disconnecting the printer from power before proceeding.
Danger:
Performing maintenance on the printer while it is plugged in increases the risk of electric shock. Never remove the back panel of the printer while the printer is plugged in. Never reconnect the printer to power while the back panel is uninstalled.
Step 3: Disconnect the nitrogen source
Disconnect the nitrogen hose from the quick-disconnect fitting, if connected.
Step 4: Remove the Wi-Fi antenna
Unscrew and remove the Wi-Fi antenna, if it is connected.
Removing the rear panels
Overview: Remove the rear panels to access the interior of the printer.
Step 1: Remove the lower rear panel screws
The six black lower rear panel screws are circled in red. The four chrome lower rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the six black panel screws and the four chrome panel grounding screws securing the lower rear panel to the printer. Set the screws aside, taking care to separate the black and chrome screws for later reinstallation.
Step 2: Remove the lower rear panel from the printer
Pull the lower rear panel straight back and away from the printer. Lay it down on a flat, clean surface.
Step 3: Locate the exhaust duct and ring clamp
Locate the ring clamp attached to the exhaust duct in the center of the printer.
Step 4: Loosen the ring clamp screw
Using a 6.5 mm flathead screwdriver, loosen the ring clamp screw. Do not remove the screw. Pull the exhaust duct away from the exhaust pipe.
Step 5: Locate the exhaust inlet
Open the filter cabinet door on the printer. Locate the exhaust inlet on the right side of the cabinet.
Step 6: Remove the exhaust inlet screws
Using a 2.0 mm hex driver, remove the four screws attaching the exhaust inlet to the filter cabinet. Set the screws aside.
Step 7: Remove the upper rear panel screws
The two black upper rear panel screws are circled in red. The two chrome upper rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the two black panel screws and two chrome panel grounding screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer. Set the screws aside, taking care to separate the black and chrome screws for later reinstallation.
Step 8: Remove the upper rear panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the eight screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer:
Set the screws aside.
Step 9: Remove the upper rear panel
Pull the upper rear panel straight back and away from the printer. Lay it down on a flat, clean surface.
Removing the top panel
Overview: Remove the top panel to access the interior of the printer.
Step 1: Remove the top panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the 18 6 mm M4 countersunk screws securing the top panel to the printer:
Set the screws aside.
Step 2: Remove the top panel
Lift the top panel off of the printer by grabbing the IR sensor door and the rear-most edge. Set the top panel aside.
Removing the buffer-side panel
Overview: Remove the buffer-side panel to access the interior of the printer.
Step 1: Remove the buffer-side panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the four 6 mm M4 countersunk screws that secure the buffer-side panel to the printer.
Step 2: Remove the buffer-side panel
Separate the buffer-side panel from the printer and set it aside.
Removing the insulation and inner rear panels
Overview: Uninstall the internal insulation covering the air heater.
Step 1: Loosen the air duct ring clamp
If you have not already, put on a N95 or better respirator, a pair of safety glasses and a pair of nonreactive nitrile gloves. Use a 6.5 mm slotted screwdriver to loosen, but do not remove, the ring clamp screw securing the duct to the air heater inlet.
Step 2: Separate the air duct from the air heater inlet
Slide the duct off of the inlet. Gently move it away from the rear insulation panel.
Step 3: Open the insulation retention tabs
Straighten the three metal retention tabs securing the rear upper insulation panel.
Notice:
Ensure that both halves of each tab are parallel to each other. If they are not, they will shred the insulation as the panel is removed.
Step 4: Move the nitrogen plenum
Using a T20 Torx driver and a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the three T20 screws and two M3 socket head screws that secure the nitrogen plenum to the printer. You do not need to remove the plenum assembly; it only needs to be loose to allow clearance for the insulation and access panel to be removed.
Step 5: Cut the insulation foil tape
Feel along the insulation for the seams identified in the above image. Use a utility knife to cut along these seams and release the insulation panel.
Note:
You only need to cut through the foil tape securing the insulation panel in place; the insulation itself is already cut to size.
Alternatively, locate an edge of the existing foil tape and begin peeling it away from the insulation panel. It will still be necessary to cut the top corner pieces of foil tape in order to separate the panel from the printer.
Step 6: Remove the insulation panel
Carefully pull the insulation panel away from the printer.
Notice:
Avoid abruptly removing the insulation panel, as it may begin flaking apart.
Step 7: Remove the inner rear panel screws
Use a 3 mm hex driver to remove the 13 8.0 mm M4 socket head screws that secure the inner rear panel to the printer.
Step 8: Separate the inner rear panel from the printer
Use a 6.5 mm slotted screwdriver to separate a corner of the inner rear panel from the inner back plate. Ensure that the driver is inserted between the gasket and second black steel plate.
Notice:
Avoid gouging the gasket as much as possible. If it is damaged, it will need to be replaced.
Step 9: Remove the inner rear panel
Continue separating the inner rear panel from the inner back plate without using the slotted screwdriver. Set the inner rear panel aside on a flat, clean surface with the gasket facing up.
Notice:
Ensure that debris from the insulation panels does not become embedded into the gasket, as this can prevent it from sealing properly when replaced replaced. Depending on when the printer was built, the gasket may be made of a white or black foam material.
Removing the original air heater RTD
Overview: Remove the original air heater RTD from the printer.
Step 1: Unplug the air heater RTD
Locate the connector on the buffer side of the printer labeled C026. Disconnect the connector, then separate the cable from the cable clamp.
Step 2: Remove the air heater RTD connector
Use a pair of flush cutters to cut the connector off of the original RTD cable.
NOTICE:
Make sure to cut the connector off of the RTD cable and not the extension cable that it attaches to.
Step 3: Route the air heater RTD cable
Pull the severed end of the RTD cable through the first silicone grommet into the inner-rear cavity of the printer.
Step 4: Open the print enclosure door
Open the print enclosure door using the manual release handle in the filter cabinet.
Locate the air heater grate, positioned between the quartz tube heaters on the back wall of the print enclosure. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the four 8 mm M3 socket head screws securing the grate to the printer.
Step 6: Unmount the air heater RTD
Using a 2 mm hex driver, loosen and remove the 8 mm M3 button screw securing the RTD to the air heater assembly. Set the screw aside.
Step 7: Remove the air heater RTD
Locate the red silicone grommet in the top buffer-side corner of the print enclosure. Pull the RTD cable through the grommet and then remove the old RTD from the printer. Dispose of the RTD.
Step 8: Remove the air heater RTD cable routing grommet
From inside the print enclosure, push the red silicone grommet out of its frame.
Installing the replacement air heater RTD
Overview: Mount, secure, and plug in the replacement air heater RTD.
Step 1: Prepare the air heater RTD for installation
Unbox the replacement air heater RTD. Apply a piece of heat shrink tubing or tape to the end of the wires as shown. This makes it easier to feed the wires through the grommets without damaging them.
Step 2: Route the air heater RTD cable
Route the new RTD cable through the top-left corner of the air heater grate (1) and out the upper left near the grommet hole (2). Pull the cable away from the grommet hole to gather slack (3), then feed the cable through the hole (4).
Step 3: Mount and secure the air heater RTD
Align the screw hole in the RTD with the corresponding hold in the air heater grate. Thread the 8 mm M3 button screw into the screw hole, then use a 2 mm hex driver to tighten until snug.
Step 4: Mount and secure the air heater grate
Place the air heater grate over the air heater as shown, aligning the four screw holes in the grate with the corresponding screw holes in the printer frame. Thread one 8 mm M3 socket head screw into each of the four screw holes. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug. Close the print enclosure door.
Step 6: Continue routing the air heater RTD cable
Move to the back of the printer. Continue pulling the new RTD cable through the grommet hole from the backside of the printer. Ensure there is no slack left inside the print enclosure. Feed the new RTD cable through the detached silicone grommet.
Step 7: Reinsert the rubber grommet
Secure the grommet back into the printer’s frame.
Step 8: Continue routing the air heater RTD cable
Feed the new RTD cable through the buffer-side grommet until all slack has been removed from of the rear cavity.
Step 9: Expose the air heater RTD wires
Carefully remove the heat shrink tubing or tape from the end of the wires and expose the contacts. If the insulation on any of the individual wires is broken and the conductor is exposed, the RTD cannot be used.
Step 10: Reconnect the air heater RTD connector
Slide the crimped connectors into the new connector. Follow pin order shown here. Reconnect the air heater RTD to its extension cable
Reinstalling the inner rear and insulation panels
Overview: After replacing the air heater RTD, reinstall the inner rear panel and insulation.
Step 1: Mount the inner rear panel
Put on a pair of clean nitrile gloves. Orient the inner rear panel with the metal retention tabs facing you. Slide the panel over the air heater inlet. Ensure that the screw holes in the panel align with those in the printer.
Step 2: Secure the inner rear panel
Thread one M4 socket head screw into each of the 13 screw holes in the inner rear panel. Using a 3 mm hex driver, tighten until snug.
Step 3: Prepare the retention tabs
Straighten the three metal retention tabs that secure the rear upper insulation panel to the back of the printer. Ensure that both halves of each tab are parallel to each other. If they are not, they will shred the insulation as the panel is removed.
Step 4: Mount the insulation panel
Slide the upper rear insulation panel in place and fold the tabs over to secure it.
Step 5: Seal the insulation panel in place
Use 100 mm (4 in) foil tape to cover any seams around the rear insulation panel. If the previous tape was peeled off instead of cut, replace the entire piece.
Step 6: Mount and secure the air heater duct
Slide the air heater duct back onto the inlet pipe, then tighten the ring clamp to secure the duct.
Step 7: Secure the nitrogen plenum
Using a T20 Torx driver and a 2.5 mm hex driver, reinstall the three T20 screws and two M3 socket head screws that secure the nitrogen plenum to the printer.
Reinstalling the buffer-side panel
Overview: After installing the replacement air heater RTD, reinstall and secure the buffer-side panel.
Step 1: Align the buffer-side panel with the printer
Lift the buffer-side panel and align its screw holes with those in the printer frame, as shown.
Step 2: Secure the buffer-side panel
Thread one 6 mm M4 countersunk screw into each of the four marked screw holes in the buffer-side panel. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten until snug.
Reinstalling the top panel
Overview: After reinstalling the buffer-side panel, reinstall and secure the top panel.
Step 1: Align the top panel
Lift the top panel and place it on top of the printer. Align the screw holes in the top panel with the corresponding holes in the printer frame.
Step 2: Secure the top panel screws
Thread a 6 mm M4 countersunk screw into each of the 18 marked screw holes in the top panel:
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Reinstalling the rear panels
Overview: After installing the replacement air heater, reinstall and secure the rear panels.
Step 1: Align the upper rear panel with the printer
Lift the upper rear panel and align it with the four screw holes on the top of the printer.
Step 2: Secure the upper rear panel top screws
Thread the four 6.0 mm screws into each of the screw holes on the top of the printer. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until finger tight. You may need to adjust the exhaust duct to correctly position the upper rear panel.
Step 3: Secure the buffer side panel screws
Thread the two 6 mm screws into the screw holes on the buffer side and the two 6 mm screws into the screw holes on the hopper side. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Step 4: Secure the hopper side panel screws
Thread the two 6mm screws into the holes on the hopper side. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Step 5: Secure the upper rear panel grounding screws
The two black upper rear panel screws are circled in red. The two chrome upper rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Thread the panel screws into the indicated screw holes on the upper rear panel. Refer to the image for the correct locations of the black and chrome screws. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, screw in the two black panel screws and two chrome grounding screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer.
Notice:
The placement of the chrome screws is critical to the printer's electrical grounding. Incorrect placement may lead to printer damage.
Step 6: Slide the exhaust duct into position
Slide the end of the exhaust duct with the ring clamp back onto the exhaust pipe. Ensure the exhaust duct presses against the insulation panel.
Step 7: Tighten the exhaust duct ring clamp
Using a 6.5 mm flathead screwdriver, tighten the ring clamp until finger tight.
Step 8: Secure the exhaust inlet screws
Open the filter cabinet door on the printer. Thread the four 8.0 mm screws into the screw holes. Using a 2.0 mm hex driver, screw in the four exhaust duct screws until finger tight.
Step 9: Check the exhaust duct seal
To ensure there is no gap between the exhaust duct’s mounting plate and the filter cabinet housing, shine a flashlight or other light source around the exhaust inlet inside the filter cabinet. If any light is visible behind the filter cabinet, the duct is not properly sealed. If necessary, use a 2.0 mm hex driver to tighten the exhaust duct screws. Close the filter cabinet door when finished.
Step 10: Secure the lower rear panel grounding screws
The six black lower rear panel screws are circled in red. The four chrome lower rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Thread the panel screws into the indicated screw holes on the lower rear panel. Refer to the image for the correct locations of the black and chrome screws. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, screw in the six black panel screws and four chrome panel grounding screws securing the lower rear panel to the printer.
Notice:
The placement of the chrome screws is critical to the printer's electrical grounding. Incorrect placement may lead to printer damage.
Step 11: Reinstall the Wi-Fi antenna (optional)
Screw the Wi-Fi antenna onto the jack on the back of the unit.
Step 12: Reconnect the nitrogen supply (optional)
Reconnect the nitrogen hose to the quick-disconnect fitting, if previously installed.
Finalizing the repair
Overview: After installing the replacement air heater RTD, power on the printer and perform final checks.
Step 1: Power on the printer
Connect the power cable to the printer and the power supply. The printer initializes.
Step 2: Test the repair
Start a print. Monitor the printer to ensure that the print proceeds normally. Contact Formlabs Support or your certified service provider to share the results of the procedure.
