Fuse 1 generation printers use a laser to selectively sinter powder into printed parts. A faulty or malfunctioning laser assembly will lead to print failures or prevent the printer from printing entirely.
Use this guide to replace the laser assembly on a Fuse 1+ 30W printer.
Required supplies:
Formlabs:
Third-party:
Estimated time: 45–60 minutes
Danger:
Read and follow all safety instructions and warnings in the operator manual. Replacement with incorrect parts can lead to burns, shock, fire, or explosion. Dispose of all parts in accordance with local regulations.
Performing this procedure may expose you to Class 4 laser radiation in the event that redundant safety systems are defeated or fail unexpectedly. Never remove any part of the laser assembly while the printer is still plugged in. Never install or use a laser assembly that is modified, damaged or otherwise unfit for use in a Fuse 1+ 30W printer.
Warning:
Do not perform this procedure if the printer was printing less than six hours prior. Failure to do so may result in serious burns. Allow the print enclosure to cool to room temperature before touching or inspecting any Fuse 1+ 30W components.
Preparing the workspace
Overview: Prepare the printer and a dust-free workspace for replacing the laser assembly.
Notice:
Fuse 1 generation printers contain sensitive electronic components. Ground yourself before touching any electronics in the printer by using a grounding strap or touching a grounded piece of metal.
Step 1: Prepare the workspace
Clear a workspace around your printer. Ensure that the workspace is well-ventilated and free of dust.
Step 2: Unplug the printer
Disconnect the power cable before continuing with maintenance. Do not perform maintenance on the printer while it is connected to power. Wait five minutes after disconnecting the printer from power before proceeding.
Danger:
Performing maintenance on the printer while it is plugged in increases the risk of electric shock. Never remove the back panel of the printer while the printer is plugged in. Never reconnect the printer to power while the back panel is uninstalled.
Step 3: Disconnect the nitrogen source
Disconnect the nitrogen hose from the quick-disconnect fitting, if connected.
Step 4: Remove the Wi-Fi antenna
Unscrew and remove the Wi-Fi antenna, if it is connected.
Removing the rear panels
Overview: Remove the rear panels to access the interior of the printer.
The six black lower rear panel screws are circled in red. The four chrome lower rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the six black panel screws and the four chrome panel grounding screws securing the lower rear panel to the printer. Set the screws aside, taking care to separate the black and chrome screws for later reinstallation.
Pull the lower rear panel straight back and away from the printer. Lay it down on a flat, clean surface.
Locate the ring clamp attached to the exhaust duct in the center of the printer.
Using a 6.5 mm flathead screwdriver, loosen the ring clamp screw. Do not remove the screw. Pull the exhaust duct away from the exhaust pipe.
Open the filter cabinet door on the printer. Locate the exhaust inlet on the right side of the cabinet.
Using a 2.0 mm hex driver, remove the four screws attaching the exhaust inlet to the filter cabinet. Set the screws aside.
The two black upper rear panel screws are circled in red. The two chrome upper rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the two black panel screws and two chrome panel grounding screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer. Set the screws aside, taking care to separate the black and chrome screws for later reinstallation.
Step 8: Remove the upper rear panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the eight screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer:
Set the screws aside.
Step 9: Remove the upper rear panel
Pull the upper rear panel straight back and away from the printer. Lay it down on a flat, clean surface.
Removing the top panel
Overview: Remove the top panel to access the interior of the printer.
Step 1: Remove the top panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the 18 6 mm M4 countersunk screws securing the top panel to the printer:
Set the screws aside.
Step 2: Remove the top panel
Lift the top panel off of the printer by grabbing the IR sensor door and the rear-most edge. Set the top panel aside.
Removing the buffer-side panel
Overview: Remove the buffer-side panel to access the interior of the printer.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the four 6 mm M4 countersunk screws that secure the buffer-side panel to the printer.
Separate the buffer-side panel from the printer and set it aside.
Removing the upper cooling shroud
Overview: Remove the upper cooling shroud to access the laser collimator and lens.
Step 1: Remove the IR sensor
Open the access door to the IR sensor panel, located on top of the printer next to the hopper. Lift the IR sensor and disconnect the cable from it. Set the IR sensor aside on a flat surface with the sensor window facing up. Feed the IR sensor’s cable down through the plastic shroud.
Using a 3 mm hex driver, loosen and remove the four 8 mm M4 socket head screws securing the upper cooling shroud to the printer. Newer printers also include four washers. Set the screws and washers (if present) aside. Do not separate the upper cooling shroud from the printer at this time.
Step 3: Disconnect the nitrogen valve cable, nitrogen pressure sensor cable, and cooling fan cable
Disconnect the nitrogen solenoid valve from the cable labeled F1+ Nitro N2 Valve Cable. Disconnect the nitrogen pressure sensor from the cable labeled F1+ Nitro Pressure Sensor Cable. Disconnect the cooling fan from cable C047.
For each, disconnect the cable by opening the tab and pulling the plastic connectors apart. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
Step 4: Disconnect the tubing from the upper cooling shroud
Locate the brass tee fitting on the rear side of the cooling shroud. Push the brass ring down while pulling on the plastic tube to disconnect it.
Locate the brass elbow fitting towards the rear hopper side of the printer. Push the brass ring down while pulling on the plastic tube to disconnect it.
To avoid confusing the tubes, use a permanent marker or piece of tape to label them.
Step 5: Separate the upper cooling shroud from the printer
Gently lift the shroud up and away from the printer. Check that all cables and tubes have been disconnected and nothing is caught or tangled. Remove the shroud from the printer and set it aside.
Removing the original laser assembly
Overview: Unplug and remove the original laser assembly.
Step 1: Prepare to remove the laser assembly
Put on an antistatic wrist band and connect it to a known ground point. Do not connect the wristband any surfaces that are powder-coated or painted.
Put on a pair of clean nitrile gloves.
The nitrogen intake panel, located at the bottom-left corner of the back of the printer, is secured to the printed by two or three 6 mm M4 button head screws, depending on the age of your printer. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, loosen and remove these screws. Set the screws aside and move the nitrogen intake panel away from the laser assembly heatsink.
Disconnect the three connectors on the right-hand side of the laser assembly, labeled C054, J092, and C038.
Disconnect the laser cooling fan and temperature sensor cables from the motor and temperature board just above the laser assembly.
Starting at the rear of the printer, disengage the laser fiber from the 11 plastic clips it is routed through.
At the top of the printer, locate the M3 socket head screw securing the laser collimator to the galvo block. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, loosen but do not remove the screw. Gently pull the collimator out of the galvo block.
Step 7: Protect the laser collimator and galvo block
Apply a piece of kapton tape to the lens so that it also wraps around the collimator. Apply a second piece of kapton tape to the hole from where the collimator was removed to prevent dust from entering the galvo block.
Step 8: Separate the collimator from the printer
Feed the collimator and fiber through the cutout in the plastic shroud.
There are two variants of Fuse 1+ 30W laser assemblies, each of which has a different mounting method. If the assembly matches the V1 design shown here, with a narrower heatsink, proceed to step 10. If it matches the V2/V3 design, with a wider heatsink, proceed to step 46.
Step 10: Remove the laser assembly mounting screws (V1 only)
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, loosen and remove the four 12 mm M3 socket head screws securing the laser assembly to the printer. Proceed to step 12.
Step 11: Remove the laser assembly mounting screws (V2/V3 only)
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, loosen but do not remove the two 12 mm M3 socket head screws securing the left side of the laser assembly to the printer.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, loosen and remove the two 12 mm M3 socket head screws securing the right side of the laser assembly to the printer. Proceed to step 12.
Slide the laser assembly to the left to free it.
Step 12: Remove the laser assembly
Carefully pull the original laser assembly out of the printer and set it aside for disposal with electronic waste.
Installing the replacement laser assembly
Overview: Connect, mount, and secure the replacement laser assembly. Route the laser fiber and mount the collimator in the galvo block.
If you are not still wearing one, put on an antistatic wrist band and connect it to a known ground point. Put on a pair of clean nitrile gloves.
Remove the new laser assembly from its packaging. Before installing, ensure that the lens is free of scratches, smudges, dust, and debris. Use a bulb blower to clear any dust. If any contamination remains on the lens, gently wipe it off using a microfiber cloth wetted with ethanol.
Cover the lens with a new piece of kapton tape until it is time to insert the collimator into the galvo block.
If you originally had a V1 laser assembly, partially thread (by roughly three complete turns) a 12 mm M3 socket head screw into the two leftmost laser mounting standoffs. If you originally had a V2 or V3 laser, these screws should still be installed.
Step 3: Mount the laser assembly
Bring the laser assembly up to the printer and align the arrow with the top partially-threaded M3 screw.
Tilt the laser assembly into place. Once both the top and bottom screws have engaged the keyholes in the laser assembly, slide the assembly to the right.
Step 4: Secure the laser assembly
Thread one 12 mm M3 socket head screw into both of the rightmost screw holes in the laser assembly. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten until snug.
Use a 2.5 mm hex driver to fully secure the leftmost 12 mm M3 socket head screws that were left partially unthreaded. Access the screws using the holes in the heatsink.
Reroute the laser fiber from the rear to the top of the printer and secure using the 11 plastic clips. Ensure that the fiber has no slack and there are no sharp bends or kinks.
Feed the collimator through the slot in the plastic cooling shroud.
Step 6: Mount the collimator
Remove the kapton tape from the collimator and verify that the lens is clean. Remove the kapton tape covering the hole in the galvo block.
Gently insert the collimator into the galvo block until it reaches a hard stop and cannot be inserted any farther.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the M3 socket head screw next to the collimator until it is snug.
Step 8: Reconnect the laser cables
Reconnect the three connectors labeled C054, J092, and C038 to the right-hand side of the laser assembly. Reconnect the laser cooling fan and temperature sensor cables to the motor and temperature controller board above the laser assembly. Each connector only fits in the appropriate receptacle in one orientation.
Place the nitrogen intake panel back on its mounting points, aligning the screw holes in the panel with the corresponding holes in the printer frame. Thread one 6 mm M4 button head screw into each of the two or three screw holes, depending on the age of your printer. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Reinstalling the upper cooling shroud
Overview: After replacing the laser assembly, reinstall the upper cooling shroud.
Step 1: Reconnect the upper cooling shroud cables
Reconnect the cooling fan connector to the socket labeled C047. Reconnect the solenoid valve to the cable labeled F1+ Nitro N2 Valve Cable. Reconnect the N2 pressure sensor to the cable labeled F1+ Nitro Pressure Sensor Cable.
Step 2: Route the IR sensor cable
Position the top cooling shroud by holding it from the front edge so that the cables covered by the shroud can still be accessed. Feed the IR sensor’s Ethernet cable back through the cutout in the top shroud.
Lower the upper cooling shroud on the printer, aligning the four screw holes in the shroud with the corresponding screw holes in the printer frame. Ensure the shroud is positioned so that there is a uniform gap around the IR sensor flow body. If there is overlap, the IR sensor will not fit correctly.
Thread one 8 mm M4 socket head screw into each of the screw holes in the upper cooling shroud. Using a 3 mm hex driver, tighten until snug.
Tuck the plastic tube connected to the nitrogen solenoid valve under the sheet metal hopper cover as shown.
Step 6: Reconnect the tubing to the upper cooling shroud
Locate the brass tee fitting on the rear side of the cooling shroud. Push the plastic tube firmly into the fitting.
Locate the brass elbow fitting towards the rear hopper side of the printer. Push the plastic tube firmly into the fitting.
After insertion, pull on the tubes gently to ensure they do not come out.
Inspect the IR sensor lens for debris and clean it if necessary. Attach the ethernet cable to the IR sensor, then place the sensor back into its mount.
Reinstalling the buffer-side panel
Overview: After installing the replacement laser assembly, reinstall and secure the buffer-side panel.
Lift the buffer-side panel and align its screw holes with those in the printer frame, as shown.
Thread one 6 mm M4 countersunk screw into each of the four marked screw holes in the buffer-side panel. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten until snug.
Reinstalling the top panel
Overview: After reinstalling the buffer-side panel, reinstall and secure the top panel.
Step 1: Align the top panel
Lift the top panel and place it on top of the printer. Align the screw holes in the top panel with the corresponding holes in the printer frame.
Step 2: Secure the top panel screws
Thread a 6 mm M4 countersunk screw into each of the 18 marked screw holes in the top panel:
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Reinstalling the rear panels
Overview: After installing the replacement laser assembly, reinstall and secure the rear panels.
Lift the upper rear panel and align it with the four screw holes on the top of the printer.
Thread the four 6.0 mm screws into each of the screw holes on the top of the printer. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until finger tight. You may need to adjust the exhaust duct to correctly position the upper rear panel.
Thread the two 6 mm screws into the screw holes on the buffer side and the two 6 mm screws into the screw holes on the hopper side. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Thread the two 6mm screws into the holes on the hopper side. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
The two black upper rear panel screws are circled in red. The two chrome upper rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Thread the panel screws into the indicated screw holes on the upper rear panel. Refer to the image for the correct locations of the black and chrome screws. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, screw in the two black panel screws and two chrome grounding screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer.
Notice:
The placement of the chrome screws is critical to the printer's electrical grounding. Incorrect placement may lead to printer damage.
Step 6: Slide the exhaust duct into position
Slide the end of the exhaust duct with the ring clamp back onto the exhaust pipe. Ensure the exhaust duct presses against the insulation panel.
Step 7: Tighten the exhaust duct ring clamp
Using a 6.5 mm flathead screwdriver, tighten the ring clamp until finger tight.
Open the filter cabinet door on the printer. Thread the four 8.0 mm screws into the screw holes. Using a 2.0 mm hex driver, screw in the four exhaust duct screws until finger tight.
To ensure there is no gap between the exhaust duct’s mounting plate and the filter cabinet housing, shine a flashlight or other light source around the exhaust inlet inside the filter cabinet. If any light is visible behind the filter cabinet, the duct is not properly sealed. If necessary, use a 2.0 mm hex driver to tighten the exhaust duct screws. Close the filter cabinet door when finished.
The six black lower rear panel screws are circled in red. The four chrome lower rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Thread the panel screws into the indicated screw holes on the lower rear panel. Refer to the image for the correct locations of the black and chrome screws. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, screw in the six black panel screws and four chrome panel grounding screws securing the lower rear panel to the printer.
Notice:
The placement of the chrome screws is critical to the printer's electrical grounding. Incorrect placement may lead to printer damage.
Step 11: Reinstall the Wi-Fi antenna (optional)
Screw the Wi-Fi antenna onto the jack on the back of the unit.
Step 12: Reconnect the nitrogen supply (optional)
Reconnect the nitrogen hose to the quick-disconnect fitting, if previously installed.
Finalizing the repair
Overview: After installing the replacement laser assembly, power on the printer and perform final checks.
Step 1: Power on the printer
Connect the power cable to the printer and the power supply. The printer initializes.
Step 2: Test the repair
Start a print. Monitor the printer to ensure that the print proceeds normally. Contact Formlabs Support or your certified service provider to share the results of the procedure.
