Fuse 1 generation printers use a variety of heaters, including two quartz tube heaters at the top of the print enclosure, to heat the powder during a print. The quartz tube heater frame holds and powers the quartz tube heaters. A faulty or malfunctioning quartz tube heater frame will prevent the printer from printing normally.
Use this guide to replace the quartz tube heater frame in a Fuse 1 generation printer.
Required supplies:
Formlabs:
Third-party:
Estimated time: 90–120 minutes minutes
Danger:
Read and follow all safety instructions and warnings in the operator manual. Replacement with incorrect parts can lead to burns, shock, fire, or explosion. Dispose of all parts in accordance with local regulations.
Warning:
Do not perform this procedure if the printer was printing less than six hours prior. Failure to do so may result in serious burns. Allow the print enclosure to cool to room temperature before touching or inspecting any Fuse 1 components.
Preparing the printer
Overview: Prepare the printer for the repair and remove the quartz tube heater spatial filters to better access the quartz tube heater frame.
Step 1: Prepare the workspace
Clear a workspace around your printer. Ensure that the workspace is well-ventilated and free of dust. Put on appropriate personal protective equipment for the powder in the printer, based on the safety data sheet for the powder.
Step 2: Open the print enclosure door
Open the print enclosure door using the touchscreen. If there is a build chamber inserted, unplug and remove it.
Step 3: Remove the spatial filter retention screw
Use a 2.5 mm hex driver to remove the 8.0 mm M3 cap screw holding either quartz tube heater’s spatial filter to the frame.
Step 4: Remove the spatial filter
Insert your finger into the slot on the spatial filter and pull it away from the printer to remove it from the print enclosure. Set the spatial filter aside.
Step 5: Unmount and remove the second spatial filter
Repeat steps 3–4 for the remaining filter.
Step 6: Clean the powder handling system
Follow the instructions for cleaning the powder troughs, rear powder shelf, and print enclosure from the support article Cleaning all powder out of a Fuse 1 generation printer.
Step 7: Unplug the printer
Disconnect the power cable before continuing with maintenance. Do not perform maintenance on the printer while it is connected to power. Wait five minutes after disconnecting the printer from power before proceeding.
Danger:
Performing maintenance on the printer while it is plugged in increases the risk of electric shock. Never remove the back panel of the printer while the printer is plugged in. Never reconnect the printer to power while the back panel is uninstalled.
Step 8: Remove the Wi-Fi antenna
Unscrew and remove the Wi-Fi antenna, if it is connected.
Step 9: Disconnect the nitrogen source (Fuse 1+ 30W only)
Disconnect the nitrogen hose from the quick-disconnect fitting, if connected.
Removing the quartz tube heaters
Overview: Remove the quartz tube heaters from the quartz tube heater frame.
Step 1: Prepare to remove the quartz tube heaters
Put on a pair of clean nitrile gloves. Never handle a quartz tube without wearing gloves. If at any point bare skin contacts the glass, apply some alcohol to a microfiber cloth and thoroughly wipe it down before reinstalling.
Step 2: Uninstall the quartz tube heaters
Gently grip the front of the quartz tube with two fingers. Push the tube towards the rear of the printer until it is free from the front socket, then pull it downwards to maneuver it out of the frame. Depending on when the printer was built, there may be an alignment bracket that holds the neck of the tube in one orientation. This was removed in newer printers.
Gently set the quartz tube heater down on a flat, clean surface. Repeat for the other quartz tube heater.
Notice:
Exercise caution when handling quartz tubes, as they can chip, crack, or break if handled aggressively. Any damage to the tube’s quartz glass will prevent it from functioning.
Removing the rear panels
Overview: Remove the rear panels to access the interior of the printer.
Step 1: Remove the lower rear panel screws
The six black lower rear panel screws are circled in red. The four chrome lower rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the six black panel screws and the four chrome panel grounding screws securing the lower rear panel to the printer. Set the screws aside, taking care to separate the black and chrome screws for later reinstallation.
Step 2: Remove the lower rear panel from the printer
Pull the lower rear panel straight back and away from the printer. Lay it down on a flat, clean surface.
Step 3: Locate the exhaust duct and ring clamp
Locate the ring clamp attached to the exhaust duct in the center of the printer.
Step 4: Loosen the ring clamp screw
Using a 6.5 mm flathead screwdriver, loosen the ring clamp screw. Do not remove the screw. Pull the exhaust duct away from the exhaust pipe.
Step 5: Locate the exhaust inlet
Open the filter cabinet door on the printer. Locate the exhaust inlet on the right side of the cabinet.
Step 6: Remove the exhaust inlet screws
Using a 2.0 mm hex driver, remove the four screws attaching the exhaust inlet to the filter cabinet. Set the screws aside.
Step 7: Remove the upper rear panel screws
The two black upper rear panel screws are circled in red. The two chrome upper rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the two black panel screws and two chrome panel grounding screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer. Set the screws aside, taking care to separate the black and chrome screws for later reinstallation.
Step 8: Remove the upper rear panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the eight screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer:
Set the screws aside.
Step 9: Remove the upper rear panel
Pull the upper rear panel straight back and away from the printer. Lay it down on a flat, clean surface.
Removing the top panel
Overview: Remove the top panel to access the interior of the printer.
Step 1: Remove the top panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the 18 6 mm M4 countersunk screws securing the top panel to the printer:
Set the screws aside.
Step 2: Remove the top panel
Lift the top panel off of the printer by grabbing the IR sensor door and the rear-most edge. Set the top panel aside.
Removing the buffer-side panel
Overview: Remove the buffer-side panel to access the interior of the printer.
Step 1: Remove the buffer-side panel screws
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the four 6 mm M4 countersunk screws that secure the buffer-side panel to the printer.
Step 2: Remove the buffer-side panel
Separate the buffer-side panel from the printer and set it aside.
Removing the insulation and inner rear panels
Overview: Uninstall the internal insulation covering the back of the quartz tube heater frame.
Step 1: Loosen the air duct ring clamp
If you have not already, put on a N95 or better respirator, a pair of safety glasses and a pair of nonreactive nitrile gloves. Use a 6.5 mm slotted screwdriver to loosen, but do not remove, the ring clamp screw securing the duct to the air heater inlet.
Step 2: Separate the air duct from the air heater inlet
Slide the duct off of the inlet. Gently move it away from the rear insulation panel.
Step 3: Open the insulation retention tabs
Straighten the three metal retention tabs securing the rear upper insulation panel.
Notice:
Ensure that both halves of each tab are parallel to each other. If they are not, they will shred the insulation as the panel is removed.
Step 4: Move the nitrogen plenum (Fuse 1+ 30W only)
Using a T20 Torx driver and a 2.5 mm hex driver, remove the three T20 screws and two M3 socket head screws that secure the nitrogen plenum to the printer. You do not need to remove the plenum assembly; it only needs to be loose to allow clearance for the insulation and access panel to be removed.
Step 5: Cut the insulation foil tape
Feel along the insulation for the seams identified in the above image. Use a utility knife to cut along these seams and release the insulation panel.
Note:
You only need to cut through the foil tape securing the insulation panel in place; the insulation itself is already cut to size.
Alternatively, locate an edge of the existing foil tape and begin peeling it away from the insulation panel. It will still be necessary to cut the top corner pieces of foil tape in order to separate the panel from the printer.
Step 6: Remove the insulation panel
Carefully pull the insulation panel away from the printer.
Notice:
Avoid abruptly removing the insulation panel, as it may begin flaking apart.
Step 7: Remove the inner rear panel screws
Use a 3 mm hex driver to remove the 13 8.0 mm M4 socket head screws that secure the inner rear panel to the printer.
Step 8: Separate the inner rear panel from the printer
Use a 6.5 mm slotted screwdriver to separate a corner of the inner rear panel from the inner back plate. Ensure that the driver is inserted between the gasket and second black steel plate.
Notice:
Avoid gouging the gasket as much as possible. If it is damaged, it will need to be replaced.
Step 9: Remove the inner rear panel
Continue separating the inner rear panel from the inner back plate without using the slotted screwdriver. Set the inner rear panel aside on a flat, clean surface with the gasket facing up.
Notice:
Ensure that debris from the insulation panels does not become embedded into the gasket, as this can prevent it from sealing properly when replaced replaced. Depending on when the printer was built, the gasket may be made of a white or black foam material.
Removing the original quartz tube heater frame
Overview: Disconnect and remove the original quartz tube heater frame.
Step 1: Disconnect the quartz tube heater frame cables
Locate the bundle of connectors on the buffer side of the printer. Disconnect the pairs of wires labeled C010 QTB and C002 QTH. Disconnect the connectors by pulling firmly from either side. Hold the connectors and not the wires while pulling. Use pliers or wiggle the connectors if they are difficult to separate.
The connectors may be different colors than what is shown depending on when the printer was built and its repair history. The connectors are not color-coded.
Step 2: Cut the quartz tube heater frame cable connectors
Cut the connectors off the four tan braided wires using flush cutters or wire strippers.
Step 3: Begin routing the quartz tube heater frame cables
Separate the quartz tube heater frame cables into two pairs and begin feeding them through the rubber grommets in the back wall of the printer.
Step 4: Open the print enclosure door
Open the print enclosure door using the manual release handle in the filter cabinet.
Step 5: Remove the optical cassette
Remove the optical cassette (if one is installed), then close the cassette tray.
Step 6: Remove the rear quartz tube heater frame mounting screws
Using a 2 mm hex driver, loosen and remove the three 10 mm M3 button head screws securing the rear of the heater frame to the print chamber wall. Set the screws aside.
Step 7: Remove the front quartz tube heater frame mounting screws
Using a 2 mm hex driver, loosen and remove the two 10 mm M3 button head screws securing the front of the heater frame to the front of the print enclosure. Set the screw aside.
Step 8: Remove the quartz tube heater frame
Hold the front end of the frame while opening the cassette tray. If the frame does not slide out easily, pull firmly downwards from the back and then the front to free it from the printer.
Close the cassette tray. Maneuver the frame away from the back wall of the print enclosure and gently pull it forward until the two pairs of wires have been pulled through the rubber grommets. Set the quartz tube heater frame aside for disposal with electronic waste.
Installing the replacement quartz tube heater frame
Overview: Connect, mount, and secure the replacement quartz tube heater frame.
Step 1: Route the quartz tube heater frame cables
Remove the two rubber grommets that the original quartz tube heater frame cables passed through from the back wall of the print enclosure. Place the new quartz tube heater frame partially inside the print enclosure, then reach inside and guide the two pairs of wires through the grommet holes in the back wall.
From the rear of the printer, feed the wires through the red grommets and pull the wires through the back of the enclosure.
Step 2: Mount the quartz tube heater frame
From the front of the print enclosure, open the cassette tray and lift the frame into place. Close the cassette tray to prevent the frame from falling while you thread the quartz tube heater frame mounting screws.
Step 3: Install the front set of quartz tube heater frame mounting screws
Thread one 10 mm M3 button head screw into both of the screw holes in the front of the quartz tube heater frame. Do not tighten the screws at this time.
Step 4: Continue routing the quartz tube heater frame cables
From the rear of the printer, carefully pull the quartz tube heater frame cables through the grommets until there is no slack inside the print enclosure.
Step 5: Install the rear set of quartz tube heater frame mounting screws
Lift the rear of the heater frame up into the print enclosure to align it with the three screw holes along the back wall. Thread one 10 mm M3 button head screw into each of the screw holes in the back of the quartz tube heater frame.
Step 6: Secure the quartz tube heater frame
Using a 2 mm hex driver, tighten the five quartz tube heater frame mounting screws until snug.
Step 7: Reseat the rubber grommets in the print enclosure wall
From the rear of the printer, finish pulling the two pairs of wires through the two rubber grommets. Push the grommets into the holes in the enclosure wall to secure them. Do not leave them unsecured.
Step 8: Continue routing the quartz tube heater frame cables
Feed the wires from the hopper side of the heater frame through the rubber grommet on the opposite side of the printer enclosure.
Repeat for the wires on the buffer side of the frame.
Step 9: Crimp new connectors onto the quartz tube heater frame cables
If the ends of the wires are not stripped, use wire strippers to remove roughly 10 mm of insulation. Twist the strands of wire, insert into a new spade connector, and use a crimping tool to crimp it onto the wire. Gently tug the wire to ensure it doesn’t come free.
Step 10: Connect the quartz tube heater frame cables
Connect the hopper-side wires to those in the printer labeled C002 QTH. Polarity does not matter; either wire from the hopper side of the frame can be connected to either blue or brown wire labeled C002 QTH.
Connect the buffer-side wires to those in the printer labeled C010 QTB. Polarity does not matter; either wire from the hopper side of the frame can be connected to either red or blue wire labeled C010 QTB.
Resecure the cables into any cable clamp they were previously routed through.
Reinstalling the inner rear and insulation panels
Overview: After replacing the air heater RTD, reinstall the inner rear panel and insulation.
Step 1: Mount the inner rear panel
Put on a pair of clean nitrile gloves. Orient the inner rear panel with the metal retention tabs facing you. Slide the panel over the air heater inlet. Ensure that the screw holes in the panel align with those in the printer.
Step 2: Secure the inner rear panel
Thread one M4 socket head screw into each of the 13 screw holes in the inner rear panel. Using a 3 mm hex driver, tighten until snug.
Step 3: Prepare the retention tabs
Straighten the three metal retention tabs that secure the rear upper insulation panel to the back of the printer. Ensure that both halves of each tab are parallel to each other. If they are not, they will shred the insulation as the panel is removed.
Step 4: Mount the insulation panel
Slide the upper rear insulation panel in place and fold the tabs over to secure it.
Step 5: Seal the insulation panel in place
Use 100 mm (4 in) foil tape to cover any seams around the rear insulation panel. If the previous tape was peeled off instead of cut, replace the entire piece.
Step 6: Mount and secure the air heater duct
Slide the air heater duct back onto the inlet pipe, then tighten the ring clamp to secure the duct.
Using a T20 Torx driver and a 2.5 mm hex driver, reinstall the three T20 screws and two M3 socket head screws that secure the nitrogen plenum to the printer.
Reinstalling the buffer-side panel
Overview: After installing the replacement air heater, reinstall and secure the buffer-side panel.
Step 1: Align the buffer-side panel with the printer
Lift the buffer-side panel and align its screw holes with those in the printer frame, as shown.
Step 2: Secure the buffer-side panel
Thread one 6 mm M4 countersunk screw into each of the four marked screw holes in the buffer-side panel. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten until snug.
Reinstalling the top panel
Overview: After reinstalling the buffer-side panel, reinstall and secure the top panel.
Step 1: Align the top panel
Lift the top panel and place it on top of the printer. Align the screw holes in the top panel with the corresponding holes in the printer frame.
Step 2: Secure the top panel screws
Thread a 6 mm M4 countersunk screw into each of the 18 marked screw holes in the top panel:
Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Reinstalling the rear panels
Overview: After installing the replacement air heater RTD, reinstall and secure the rear panels.
Step 1: Align the upper rear panel with the printer
Lift the upper rear panel and align it with the four screw holes on the top of the printer.
Step 2: Secure the upper rear panel top screws
Thread the four 6.0 mm screws into each of the screw holes on the top of the printer. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until finger tight. You may need to adjust the exhaust duct to correctly position the upper rear panel.
Step 3: Secure the buffer side panel screws
Thread the two 6 mm screws into the screw holes on the buffer side and the two 6 mm screws into the screw holes on the hopper side. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Step 4: Secure the hopper side panel screws
Thread the two 6mm screws into the holes on the hopper side. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, tighten the screws until snug.
Step 5: Secure the upper rear panel grounding screws
The two black upper rear panel screws are circled in red. The two chrome upper rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Thread the panel screws into the indicated screw holes on the upper rear panel. Refer to the image for the correct locations of the black and chrome screws. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, screw in the two black panel screws and two chrome grounding screws securing the upper rear panel to the printer.
Notice:
The placement of the chrome screws is critical to the printer's electrical grounding. Incorrect placement may lead to printer damage.
Step 6: Slide the exhaust duct into position
Slide the end of the exhaust duct with the ring clamp back onto the exhaust pipe. Ensure the exhaust duct presses against the insulation panel.
Step 7: Tighten the exhaust duct ring clamp
Using a 6.5 mm flathead screwdriver, tighten the ring clamp until finger tight.
Step 8: Secure the exhaust inlet screws
Open the filter cabinet door on the printer. Thread the four 8.0 mm screws into the screw holes. Using a 2.0 mm hex driver, screw in the four exhaust duct screws until finger tight.
Step 9: Check the exhaust duct seal
To ensure there is no gap between the exhaust duct’s mounting plate and the filter cabinet housing, shine a flashlight or other light source around the exhaust inlet inside the filter cabinet. If any light is visible behind the filter cabinet, the duct is not properly sealed. If necessary, use a 2.0 mm hex driver to tighten the exhaust duct screws. Close the filter cabinet door when finished.
Step 10: Secure the lower rear panel grounding screws
The six black lower rear panel screws are circled in red. The four chrome lower rear panel grounding screws are circled in blue.
Thread the panel screws into the indicated screw holes on the lower rear panel. Refer to the image for the correct locations of the black and chrome screws. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver, screw in the six black panel screws and four chrome panel grounding screws securing the lower rear panel to the printer.
Notice:
The placement of the chrome screws is critical to the printer's electrical grounding. Incorrect placement may lead to printer damage.
Step 11: Reinstall the Wi-Fi antenna (optional)
Screw the Wi-Fi antenna onto the jack on the back of the unit.
Step 12: Reconnect the nitrogen supply (Fuse 1+ 30W only)
Reconnect the nitrogen hose to the quick-disconnect fitting, if previously installed.
Reinstalling the quartz tube heaters
Overview: Reinsert the quartz tube heaters into the replacement frame.
Put on a pair of clean nonreactive nitrile gloves. Wet a microfiber cloth with ethanol, pick up the quartz tube by one of the ceramic ends, and gently wipe the glass with the cloth.
Never handle a quartz tube without wearing gloves. If at any point bare skin contacts the quartz glass, repeat this cleaning before reinstalling.
Step 2: Install one quartz tube heater
Maneuver one quartz tube heater into the printer and align the rear ceramic base with the rear socket on one side of the new quartz tube heater frame. Push the tube backwards into the rear socket, then move the front upward until it aligns with the front socket.
Depending on when the new frame was built, there may be an alignment bracket that holds the neck of the tube in one orientation. This was removed in newer frames and it is not functionally necessary.
Step 3: Install the second quartz tube heater
Repeat steps 1–2 for the remaining quartz tube heater.
Reinstalling the quartz tube heater spatial filters
Overview: Align and reinstall the spatial filters.
Step 1: Align the spatial filter with the frame
Align the slots on the spatial filter with the rails on the lamp frame.
Step 2: Install the spatial filter
Push the spatial filter along the rails towards the back of the printer. Ensure that the alignment pins on the back of the front face of the spatial filter go into the corresponding holes in the lamp frame. The front of the spatial filter sits flush against the front of the lamp frame when it is properly installed.
Step 3: Secure the spatial filter
Thread the 8.0 mm M3 cap screw into the screw hole in the front of the spatial filter. Tighten the screw with a 2.5 mm hex driver until finger tight.
Step 4: Install and secure the other spatial filter
Repeat steps 1–3 for the other filter.
Finalizing the repair
Overview: After installing the replacement air heater RTD, power on the printer and perform final checks.
Step 1: Power on the printer
Connect the power cable to the printer and the power supply. The printer initializes.
Step 2: Test the repair
Start a print. Monitor the printer to ensure that the print proceeds normally. Contact Formlabs Support or your certified service provider to share the results of the procedure.
